What Is Surfing Classified As?

When people blog, they usually do not post every single day especially if they focus on a single topic in mind. For some people, however, who want to write out their life story and just simply express what they are feeling to others (like anyone really cares), blogging becomes therapeutic and just an average task each day. Surfing, although can be treated as a sport, becomes a part of life as well especially when living in close proximity to a great surf spot. Sadly, I still only see surfing as a sport and live it vicariously through others because I don't practice it as much as I would like to. When I do live by the ocean one day whether in Southwest France or Hawaii, I feel like surfing will act as a second job (my first being a vet). I see surfing as a sport, duty, art form, and way of life.

The reason I see surfing as a duty is because I feel more energized, passionate, and happy than physical activity. I feel so connected to surfing to the point I feel like it is destiny that I continue to pursue it. If I quit surfing, I know I would deeply regret it later on especially since it is a privilege to surf. Only a small minority of the world surf and therefore it gives me a sense of uniqueness in telling people that I surf even if I'm still not that good (which I'm not)! 

Surfing can also be considered an art form because a man or women surfing a wave looks like a beautiful picture that stands out. Surfing requires movement from all parts of the body from strong ankles to a strong back. Depending on how thick or large the wave is, the surfer's body will be moving on a surfboard in many different positions. The very first position where a surfer makes the transition from getting up on the board ( stomach to feet) is already a graceful move that is photogenic. When a surfer swings his or her arms to turn into the direction that he or she wants to go in, another work of art has just been performed. Gaining momentum and hitting the lip of the wave and flying into the air is another form of art. Although this may seem ironic, wiping out can be an art form depending on how critical the fall was especially if it was large wave.