The Legendary Surfer and His Influence

Blogging can be very influential especially when more and more people start to do it. Justin Hall for instance was a young man who loved to share personal information online with the idea of attracting an audience. He wanted a feeling of "connection." He started a revolution in a way because he influenced others to share online as well which led to the social networking sites that we have today. Surfing is quite influential as well especially when you see an experienced one making the sport look so easy. Laird Hamilton is an epitome of someone who has influenced me to surf. Of course, there are other factors like a deep love for the ocean, but he is certainly a big one. Laird Hamilton is considered to be not only the best big wave surfer of his generation but perhaps the best the world has ever known.

Laird Hamilton is a man who takes great pride in what he does. He is an ordinary man with extraordinary talent. He never even graduated from high school and yet is a very bright human being especially when it comes to taking care of his body. Although I have not met the guy but visited the town in Hawaii where he lived, I have a feeling that he is a genuinely nice person for two reasons. The first reason is that although Laird is the best surfer the world has ever known, he does not compete. Even if he did of course, he would win by considerable margins. Laird does not compete because he sees surfing as something that gives him pure pleasure. He also likes to be kept a mystery. He does not want to reveal himself to the public and be a celebrity. That life does not interest him. The second reason is that he loves the ocean very much. He is a huge advocate for the protection of marine wildlife and for clean oceans. He volunteered to help clean up after the Gulf of Mexico spill last year that devastated some marine life habitats with oil. Just as I have a deep respect for the ocean, so does he.

I have a great respect for Laird not just because of his capability to ride monster waves that reach 22 meters in height but because of his extraordinary discipline. Each day he follows a certain routine that includes sleeping, eating, and physical training. I'd say that his life style has worked out well for him as he is 48 years old today and has the body and face of a 20 year old. It is quite amazing how one person could follow the same routine for so many years. And although Laird might not have what some might consider a "real career", he certainly is happy. Many people who make a good amount of money are not happy as well as unhealthy. As Laird says, it does not matter how busy someone is, there is no excuse for not exercising. None what so ever!

When a I become a vet someday, I will always incorporate exercise in my life because it is my second career. Being physically strong is just as important as being mentally strong. Although I won't be able to surf as well as Laird, surfing will always be an important part of my life. Surfing is too important for me to throw away. Nothing can replace it as Laird has repeatedly show me.