The Legendary Surfer and His Influence

Blogging can be very influential especially when more and more people start to do it. Justin Hall for instance was a young man who loved to share personal information online with the idea of attracting an audience. He wanted a feeling of "connection." He started a revolution in a way because he influenced others to share online as well which led to the social networking sites that we have today. Surfing is quite influential as well especially when you see an experienced one making the sport look so easy. Laird Hamilton is an epitome of someone who has influenced me to surf. Of course, there are other factors like a deep love for the ocean, but he is certainly a big one. Laird Hamilton is considered to be not only the best big wave surfer of his generation but perhaps the best the world has ever known.

Laird Hamilton is a man who takes great pride in what he does. He is an ordinary man with extraordinary talent. He never even graduated from high school and yet is a very bright human being especially when it comes to taking care of his body. Although I have not met the guy but visited the town in Hawaii where he lived, I have a feeling that he is a genuinely nice person for two reasons. The first reason is that although Laird is the best surfer the world has ever known, he does not compete. Even if he did of course, he would win by considerable margins. Laird does not compete because he sees surfing as something that gives him pure pleasure. He also likes to be kept a mystery. He does not want to reveal himself to the public and be a celebrity. That life does not interest him. The second reason is that he loves the ocean very much. He is a huge advocate for the protection of marine wildlife and for clean oceans. He volunteered to help clean up after the Gulf of Mexico spill last year that devastated some marine life habitats with oil. Just as I have a deep respect for the ocean, so does he.

I have a great respect for Laird not just because of his capability to ride monster waves that reach 22 meters in height but because of his extraordinary discipline. Each day he follows a certain routine that includes sleeping, eating, and physical training. I'd say that his life style has worked out well for him as he is 48 years old today and has the body and face of a 20 year old. It is quite amazing how one person could follow the same routine for so many years. And although Laird might not have what some might consider a "real career", he certainly is happy. Many people who make a good amount of money are not happy as well as unhealthy. As Laird says, it does not matter how busy someone is, there is no excuse for not exercising. None what so ever!

When a I become a vet someday, I will always incorporate exercise in my life because it is my second career. Being physically strong is just as important as being mentally strong. Although I won't be able to surf as well as Laird, surfing will always be an important part of my life. Surfing is too important for me to throw away. Nothing can replace it as Laird has repeatedly show me.

Other Forms of Surfing Part 2: Tow in Surfing, Kitesurfing, and Foil Surfing

As mentioned in an earlier post, blogging has so much variety in topic, voice, as well as audience. There are three other varieties in surfing that are worth mentioning since they are all completely different from one another. They all, however, require great balance, practice, and being in great mental and physical shape. Surfing like any other sport evolves over time as a result of advances in technology to create better equipment. The uniqueness in the evolution of surfing, however, is due to the fact that its evolution has created more ways to surf. Most other sports usually evolve along one line. For example, the only way to hit a tennis ball is with a tennis racquet. There is improved technology in the racquet but it is still a racquet. All the varieties of surfing require different types of boards and different lengths. The three other varieties of surfing are Tow-in-surfing, Kitesurfing, and Foil surfing.

Tow-in-surfing is one of the most recent new forms of surfing co-invented by the legendary surfer Laird Hamilton. Tow-in-surfing was created in order to be able to ride giant waves more effectively while limiting chances of falling. A tow-in-surfer automatically starts riding a wave without having to stand up because he or she is pulled in to the wave by a jet ski. Falling, however, is always a possible factor even for the greatest surfing warriors. Tow-in-surfing is a bit like snowboarding because your feet are attached to the board giving more balance. The board of tow-in-surfing is also very light and short allowing a surfer to make turns more easily as well as to pick up faster speeds. Tow-in-surfing is a very advanced form of surfing that only should be used for large waves.

Kitesurfing is another form of surfing that is starting to become more popular. Unlike tow-in-surfing that requires large waves, kitesurfing does not require waves at all. Kitesurfing is quite difficult as it requires a lot of technique to master. Like other forms of surfing, Kitesurfing can be dangerous especially if there is a lot of wind. In kitesurfing, you are attached to a board with a large kite gliding above you. The kite maneuvers the kitesurfer in the direction that he or she wants to go in. Many tricks like jumping, doing spins, and even flips are possible.

Foil-surfing is also a relatively new form of surfing also co-invented by Laird Hamilton. Foil-surfing takes the idea snowboard boots and creating surfing boots. Foil surfing is a small board with a hydrofoil underneath the board. The design of the board allows you to stand up with ease, pulled in by a jet ski. You just glide through the water. Foil-surfing can be done on many different types of waves but usually small to medium size waves ( 3-5 meters) work best.

Other Forms Of Surfing Part 1: SUP Surfing and Windsurfing

Blogging comes in many different forms because there are myriad amount of topics to discuss whether it is politics, environmental issues, or just personal issues that bloggers once to discuss. Surfing, although is about riding a wave while standing up on surfboard, comes in different ways of achieving the goal. 2  forms of surfing that all give the same therapeutic and rewarding affect are traditional surfing are Stand Up Paddle Surfing (SUP) and Windsurfing. Each form of surfing brings a different surfing experience. Surfing is very personal because each individual might feel more comfortable doing one form or the other.

SUP surfing is a recent new form of surfing that was created to give people a more comfortable and relaxing feeling because it doesn't require large waves. SUP is also for people who don't have the greatest balance because the board is a lot longer and wider adding more stability. SUP also has an ore similar to one used in canoeing. In SUP surfing, the individual is always standing up and paddling using the ore. This is a very good exercise for the upper arms and shoulders especially if the current is strong. With traditional surfing, waves are needed in order to enjoy the experience. SUP surfing doesn't require good wave conditions although it is still loads of fun to ride a wave with an ore especially to pick up speed. Because SUP surfing does not require specific wave conditions it is a physical activity that can be done at any part of the day or time of year depending on the region in the world. SUP surfing is enjoyable at sunrise and sunset especially in tropical regions where the sites are absolutely breathtaking. Another advantage to SUP surfing is that practice isn't required as often in order to get good at it unlike traditional surfing that requires year round training in and out of the water. Its a hobby for people of all age groups but of course there are prerequisites like any other water sport. These include being a strong swimmer, having a good balance, and eating healthy.

Another form of surfing that is quite popular today is windsurfing. For many, it is a lot harder than traditional surfing and SUP surfing because not only does the individual need to maintain a strong sense of balance on the board but also needs to be able to adjust to the different wind conditions. Windsurfing is a board combined with a sail. Windsurfing is a very rewarding sport once the individual has gotten the hang of it. Practice and patience are the key to this form of surfing because it can take a while for a person to adjust properly. Just like SUP surfing, wave conditions aren't necessary for windsurfing but proper wind conditions obviously are. Windsurfers can actually ride waves as well but this takes quite a lot of experience to master.

Surfing as a World Journey

As mentioned in earlier posts, surfing is more than just a sport but something that you start to build your life around. Although blogging can enable you to have many connections in the virtual world, you are not physically moving anywhere, just sitting in front of a bright computer screen typing away for others to see. In surfing however, so many incredible surf spots around the planet from Chile to South Africa are at a surfer's disposal (a dream for the enthusiastic surfer). Surfer's take the best vacations possible especially if they have a couple of close friends who like to travel in order to surf. Waking up at the crack of dawn to  catch some of the swells while enjoying the beautiful scenery can be described as nothing but paradise. In other words, the closest life to utopia especially if your taking a surfing vacation in Hawaii or Fiji.  Eating, drinking, and sleeping are of course part of the vacation as well otherwise you would collapse before even getting in to the water.

If you are surfing in the South Pacific, you must take advantage of going surfing during sunset hour which is the most spectacular site to see before going to bed. Multicolored skies of purple, orange, red, yellow, and blue brings nothing but high levels of endorphins. The cycle of a surfing vacation than continues the following morning. Surfing at dawn, eating, drinking, surfing at sunset, and then bed.
The thing that is great about a surfing vacation is that although it requires many material possessions like clothing, surfboard, and other accessories, the vacation will not be too expensive because the cost of surfing is free at least financially. Food, water, and housing are the only aspects that will cost money. A surfing vacation enables a person to really experience the environment of a country. Each surf spot around the world is different with different air temperatures, water temperatures, different colors of water, coral reefs, marine life, wave conditions, and wave sizes.

A list of some great surf spots include Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania, Indonesia, Malaysia, South Africa, France, Chile, Nicaragua, Belize, Brazil, Panama, Costa Rica, Hawaii, California, and even New Jersey. Hawaii of course if more for experts especially during the winter swell at a surf break known as Peahi where waves can reach 20-25 meters in height! The Hawaiian summer swell however can be for beginners and intermediates. Most surf spots for travel usually produce "reasonable" size waves that can be interpreted as too big for some or too small for others. Certain surf spots to be aware of are in Tasmania where the waves are extremely dangerous and jagged rocks lie everywhere.

What Is Surfing Classified As?

When people blog, they usually do not post every single day especially if they focus on a single topic in mind. For some people, however, who want to write out their life story and just simply express what they are feeling to others (like anyone really cares), blogging becomes therapeutic and just an average task each day. Surfing, although can be treated as a sport, becomes a part of life as well especially when living in close proximity to a great surf spot. Sadly, I still only see surfing as a sport and live it vicariously through others because I don't practice it as much as I would like to. When I do live by the ocean one day whether in Southwest France or Hawaii, I feel like surfing will act as a second job (my first being a vet). I see surfing as a sport, duty, art form, and way of life.

The reason I see surfing as a duty is because I feel more energized, passionate, and happy than physical activity. I feel so connected to surfing to the point I feel like it is destiny that I continue to pursue it. If I quit surfing, I know I would deeply regret it later on especially since it is a privilege to surf. Only a small minority of the world surf and therefore it gives me a sense of uniqueness in telling people that I surf even if I'm still not that good (which I'm not)! 

Surfing can also be considered an art form because a man or women surfing a wave looks like a beautiful picture that stands out. Surfing requires movement from all parts of the body from strong ankles to a strong back. Depending on how thick or large the wave is, the surfer's body will be moving on a surfboard in many different positions. The very first position where a surfer makes the transition from getting up on the board ( stomach to feet) is already a graceful move that is photogenic. When a surfer swings his or her arms to turn into the direction that he or she wants to go in, another work of art has just been performed. Gaining momentum and hitting the lip of the wave and flying into the air is another form of art. Although this may seem ironic, wiping out can be an art form depending on how critical the fall was especially if it was large wave. 

How Surfing Changes Your Perception of the Ocean

Surfing certainly transforms one's body especially in terms of gaining a greater sense of balance. Surfing also transforms one's mind especially in learning how to read waves and understand ocean movement. Surfing also does one another thing: teaches someone the beauty and significance of the ocean. A beginner surfer doesn't just learn how to ride waves but also develop a greater respect for the ocean including the creatures that inhabit it. A surfer starts to understand that the ocean is bigger and stronger than the surfer itself. The ocean can consume a surfer if the surfer is not prudent and doesn't take the proper precautions before even entering the water. Nevertheless, a surfer especially one who grows up facing the ocean from his or her bedroom window doesn't just see the ocean as a "foreign entity" but rather a second home that gives he or she a great sense of belonging.

One example of how surfing has enabled me to be so emotionally attached to the ocean is through trying to act as a guardian for protecting wildlife. For example, a couple of years ago after catching a couple waves and making my way back to shore, I noticed a group of people huddled together not too far away from me. Being a curious and cynical person, I made my way to the crowd of people. I noticed immediately a video camera filming something and children laughing at something. I saw in a man's hand, a large horseshoe crab struggling to get lose. The man holding it and other people seemed fascinated by it but were tormenting it because the man wanted to see how long the horseshoe crab would be able survive without water. I didn't what was worse; watching the horseshoe crab struggle or the children laughing at it. I thought to myself how bad a message this man was sending to children. He made it seem as if tantalizing wildlife was okay.

Since I have such a deep respect for the ocean and its creatures, I took the horseshoe crab that the man eventually let go, picked up this drop dead gorgeous creature and walked a considerable distance, and released it into the open water about 20 yards off shore in order for it to be prevented from being carried from the current and landing back on shore. I felt so good doing a great deed not just for helping this innocent animal but also bringing it back to its home. Although I already had a great respect for marine life, surfing intensified my love for it because being exposed to the ocean makes it seems as if it is my own home. When the horseshoe crab was taken out of the water, I felt as if a friend was being taken out of its home. I simply could not let that happen especially not in from of my own eyes!

Learning to Visually Understand Ocean Movement While In The Water

In the last post I published, I mentioned what a surfer of any level must be able to comprehend while on the shore like outside conditions including wind, sun, low tide or high tide, and rip currents. Although conditions might look relatively calm on shore, once the surfer is in the water, the conditions might be a lot different than expected. Depending on how rough the surf is, an experienced surfer knows whether he or she can handle it or not. A beginner on the other hand might seem too overly confident or try to show off which can lead to a dangerous outcome.

While in the water, an experienced surfer will be able to tell what direction the current is moving and make crucial decisions as a result. For example if there is an eastward current and the surfer sees that he or she might be pushed into close contact with a bunch of jagged rocks, the surfer should know to get out of the water and surf in a different location that passes the rocks. In this way the current could carry the surfer eastward without any problems (hopefully). A beginner surfer might not be able to understand or even realize where the current is taking he or she. Sometimes the beginner surfer might not even realize that he or she could come in close contact with the rocks which can lead to a broken board or broken limb!

Another skill besides understanding current is learning how to read waves. It is a skill that takes time and obviously people living by a beach that has good surf have an immediate advantage. Reading waves is also about anticipation through constantly watching waves out in the distance. An experienced surfer knows that although the ocean seems flat from a distance, a wave can easily build up once it hits a reef or gets closer to shallower water like a sandbar. When first learning how to read waves while in the water, take a few moments to look for a specific region where the waves seem to be breaking frequently as well as how far from shore they seem to be breaking. Normally under high tide conditions, waves tend to break closer to shore which are not desirable conditions. On the other hand, low tide conditions usually indicate waves that break further away from shore. When first anticipating a possible wave to ride, it is important to waste no time and position yourself properly. Otherwise the wave can easily pass by before you even know it which can be very frustrating at times. Reading waves is a great technique for training your eyes in order to understand ocean movement. Just as in any sport being able to understand the rules of a sport makes the sport enjoyable. Failure to do so leads to frustration and unpleasantness as well as a possibly dangerous experience.