How Surfing Changes Your Perception of the Ocean

Surfing certainly transforms one's body especially in terms of gaining a greater sense of balance. Surfing also transforms one's mind especially in learning how to read waves and understand ocean movement. Surfing also does one another thing: teaches someone the beauty and significance of the ocean. A beginner surfer doesn't just learn how to ride waves but also develop a greater respect for the ocean including the creatures that inhabit it. A surfer starts to understand that the ocean is bigger and stronger than the surfer itself. The ocean can consume a surfer if the surfer is not prudent and doesn't take the proper precautions before even entering the water. Nevertheless, a surfer especially one who grows up facing the ocean from his or her bedroom window doesn't just see the ocean as a "foreign entity" but rather a second home that gives he or she a great sense of belonging.

One example of how surfing has enabled me to be so emotionally attached to the ocean is through trying to act as a guardian for protecting wildlife. For example, a couple of years ago after catching a couple waves and making my way back to shore, I noticed a group of people huddled together not too far away from me. Being a curious and cynical person, I made my way to the crowd of people. I noticed immediately a video camera filming something and children laughing at something. I saw in a man's hand, a large horseshoe crab struggling to get lose. The man holding it and other people seemed fascinated by it but were tormenting it because the man wanted to see how long the horseshoe crab would be able survive without water. I didn't what was worse; watching the horseshoe crab struggle or the children laughing at it. I thought to myself how bad a message this man was sending to children. He made it seem as if tantalizing wildlife was okay.

Since I have such a deep respect for the ocean and its creatures, I took the horseshoe crab that the man eventually let go, picked up this drop dead gorgeous creature and walked a considerable distance, and released it into the open water about 20 yards off shore in order for it to be prevented from being carried from the current and landing back on shore. I felt so good doing a great deed not just for helping this innocent animal but also bringing it back to its home. Although I already had a great respect for marine life, surfing intensified my love for it because being exposed to the ocean makes it seems as if it is my own home. When the horseshoe crab was taken out of the water, I felt as if a friend was being taken out of its home. I simply could not let that happen especially not in from of my own eyes!

Learning to Visually Understand Ocean Movement While In The Water

In the last post I published, I mentioned what a surfer of any level must be able to comprehend while on the shore like outside conditions including wind, sun, low tide or high tide, and rip currents. Although conditions might look relatively calm on shore, once the surfer is in the water, the conditions might be a lot different than expected. Depending on how rough the surf is, an experienced surfer knows whether he or she can handle it or not. A beginner on the other hand might seem too overly confident or try to show off which can lead to a dangerous outcome.

While in the water, an experienced surfer will be able to tell what direction the current is moving and make crucial decisions as a result. For example if there is an eastward current and the surfer sees that he or she might be pushed into close contact with a bunch of jagged rocks, the surfer should know to get out of the water and surf in a different location that passes the rocks. In this way the current could carry the surfer eastward without any problems (hopefully). A beginner surfer might not be able to understand or even realize where the current is taking he or she. Sometimes the beginner surfer might not even realize that he or she could come in close contact with the rocks which can lead to a broken board or broken limb!

Another skill besides understanding current is learning how to read waves. It is a skill that takes time and obviously people living by a beach that has good surf have an immediate advantage. Reading waves is also about anticipation through constantly watching waves out in the distance. An experienced surfer knows that although the ocean seems flat from a distance, a wave can easily build up once it hits a reef or gets closer to shallower water like a sandbar. When first learning how to read waves while in the water, take a few moments to look for a specific region where the waves seem to be breaking frequently as well as how far from shore they seem to be breaking. Normally under high tide conditions, waves tend to break closer to shore which are not desirable conditions. On the other hand, low tide conditions usually indicate waves that break further away from shore. When first anticipating a possible wave to ride, it is important to waste no time and position yourself properly. Otherwise the wave can easily pass by before you even know it which can be very frustrating at times. Reading waves is a great technique for training your eyes in order to understand ocean movement. Just as in any sport being able to understand the rules of a sport makes the sport enjoyable. Failure to do so leads to frustration and unpleasantness as well as a possibly dangerous experience.